A Guide to Hiking in the Beautiful Alpe di Siusi Italy

I LOVE Alpe di Siusi.

It’s stunning.

Breathtakingly gorgeous.

Yup.

It’s one of my favorite places on the planet.

And hiking in Alpe di Siusi is one of the best things to do in Italy.

Why?

Oh, there are loads of reasons why.

But you know the routine.

Let’s start with the where.

Or more importantly, the WHAT.

Lynne, what the hell is Alpe di Siusi?

It’s actually a high alpine meadow.

In fact, Alpe di Siusi is the largest high altitude alpine meadow in Europe.

It’s known for its wonderful hiking trails and good skiing.

Alpe di Siusi is known as Seiser Alm in German.

And it’s kind of a plateau up in the Dolomites.

It’s surrounded by all those rugged Dolomite peaks that I drool over.

Seiser Alm is not officially in Parco Naturale Sciliar-Catinaccio (Naturpark Schlern-Rosengarten), but it’s right next to it and is often associated with this Dolomite park.

So it is a protected natural area.

Where is Alpe di Siusi?

Alpe di Siusi is in the Trentino-Alto Adige region of Northern Italy.

And it’s specifically in the Alto Adige part.

Alto Adige is also known as Südtirol in German

This region is very Germanic having been part of the Austro-Hungarian empire prior to WWI.

The towns of Siusi allo Sciliar (Seis am Schlern) and Castelrotto (Kastelruth) are good spots to stay to explore this high alpine meadow.

Bolzano (Bozen) is the nearest large city and is about 25km away along some windy, scenic roads.

You can get to Siusi allo Sciliar or Castelrotto by bus from Bolzano or drive yourself.

How to get to Seiser Alm

So, as mentioned above, you can get to the towns near this gorgeous natural destination by bus from Bolzano.

Or if you prefer to drive yourself then, by all means, rent a car.

There is a lot to do, see and experience in Südtirol and a car can make it easier to get to where you want, when you want.

But a car isn’t necessary as the bus system is pretty darn good in this area.

So how do you get up to Alpe di Siusi?

Hike?

Well, you are here for hiking in Alpe di Siusi — so why not?

And you can hike up to the meadow from either Seis am Schlern or Kastelruth as there are trails from these towns.

But there are some far easier ways.

There is actually a road up to Seiser Alm so you can drive.

But parking costs quite a bit and the road closes from 9am to 5pm except to folks who are staying in one of the hotels there — because you can actually stay right on the meadow in the settlement of Compaccio (Compatsch).

Buses do run on a regular basis up to this settlement so you can take a bus.

And this is the most economical choice at just a couple of euro each way.

Well hiking is definitely the cheapest!

I prefer to take the cable car.

It is more expensive at €18(at the time of this post) for a roundtrip ticket.

But I think it’s worth it as the views are gorgeous!

If you are staying for a few days, or even a week or more, you can buy a pass for the cable car that is well worth it as it gives you multiple days and rides up and down.

Compaccio: the starting point

Whether you take the bus or the cable car, you will begin in Compaccio if you are coming from Kastelruth or Seis am Schlern.

You’ll find outdoor shops, a few cafes and restaurants and some hotels here.

And there are bathrooms just under the cable car station — because knowing where the bathroom is important. 😉

From Compatsch the trails fan out in many directions.

Feeling lazy?

There is a bus system here that can take you to other parts of Seiser Alm.

But get out on the trails to really experience the beauty of this alpine meadow.

The trails

So let’s dive into what the trails are like so you know what to expect when you visit.

Are the trails named or numbered?

The trails are actually numbered — for the most part — and many of them connect.

Don’t get confused though as there are trails that have an A or B after them.

For example, there’s a 7 and a 7A.

So don’t get mixed up.

But it’s not hard to find your way to where you want to be.

What the trails are like?

A few of the trails are actually also paved roads.

Some of the trails are wide, gravel/dirt roads or a wee bit smaller than car width.

And some of the trails are single track.

So it’s a mix.

Many of the trails are what I call “rolling” which means they don’t have big elevation changes up or down.

These are gentle trails through the meadow that are pleasant to walk along and suit those hikers who are looking to do something relatively easy.

But there are definitely trails that climb up and up.

For instance Trail #1 climbs up Monte Pez and onto the Sciliar and 7A takes you up to Baita Williams Hütte.

So there are trails for those wanting to tackle something more challenging.

I think this makes Alpe di Siusi the best place to hike in Italy — because there is something for everyone!

What is it like to hike in Alpe di Siusi?

So hiking in Alpe di Siusi is as easy or difficult as you want to make it.

The other aspect is — because the trails connect up — you can take a short hike of a couple of hours or be out all day.

Here’s another fabulous thing about Seiser Alm — there are mountain huts scattered about where you can eat a meal or a snack or quench your thirst with a beer.

I love how civilized the hiking is on this high altitude meadow!

Or, if you want, pack your own snacks and sit down amongst the flowers and enjoy the show that Mother Nature is giving you.

I will say that it can get busy on the meadow in summer.

Starting in July you will notice an increase in the amount of people.

I arrived on this last trip in mid-June and stayed for 3 weeks.

With each week more folks arrived.

In 2014 I stayed just 3 nights in mid-September and it was definitely quieter.

Just be aware that if you go in summer — when the flowers are gorgeous — you’ll be sharing the trails with quite a few folks.

That being said, it’s easy enough to find some spots for some peace and tranquility.

My advice is to tackle some of the more difficult trails as there will be fewer people on these.

My favorite trails

I have a few trails that I love — and highly recommend.

And they run the range from pretty easy to a bit longer and more challenging although none is overly strenuous.

Compaccio to Saltria

This was my first trail in the Alpe di Siusi and it remains a favorite that I gravitate to when I don’t know where to go.

It’s a lovely walk on trail #30 through some tree areas with views out to the Alpe.

But THE best is as you come around the corner and you see the Sasso Piatto and Sasso Lungo before you.

I fell in love with these peaks on that initial hike to Saltria.

From this valley and mountain viewpoint you descend to the settlement of Saltria where you’ll find a mountain hut and some other services.

Now, it is a bit of a hike up from Saltria to that fabulous view as you retrace your steps on the way back.

But take your time.

Turn around.

And gaze upon those 2 stunning peaks!

Compaccio to Sattler Hut

On this recent trip to Kastelruth I made the trek to this hut.

It’s an easy walk and has some of the best views of the Sciliar which is one of my favorite peaks of the Dolomites.

You can take trail #7 toward Santner then pick up trail #6 toward Panorama.

At Panorama you can take #2 or you can stay on Trail #6 toward Laurin and then take a left toward Sattler.

I preferred this 2nd choice although I don’t see a number for the trail on the trail map.

But, really, you can’t get lost.

I then came back along #2 and/or #13A to Panorama.

This is nice loop walk with gorgeous views of the Schlern (Sciliar).

In summer you’ll be rewarded with loads of wildflowers!!

And Sattler Hut is a wonderful spot to have a bite to eat or cool off with the beverage of your choice.

Compaccio to Saltner Hut

This is another trail similar to the above but it takes you closer to the Schlern.

In fact, if you continued past Saltner Hut, you would take the trail up to the top of this 2450m peak that is the symbol of Alpe di Siusi.

My regret is that I didn’t do just this.

Next time.

To get to Saltner Hut you’ll start on the same #10/#7 trail from Compatsch.

Take the #10 to the #5 and #6 ultimately picking up just the #5 to Saltner hut.

There are more stunning views of the Sciliar and loads of flowers in summer.

As you return you can retrace your steps or stay on trail #6 past the Panorama lift.

This is definitely one of the best hikes in Alpe di Siusi.

Around the Bullaccia

The 3 trails I’ve mentioned all go straight or right once at Compaccio.

This trail goes to the left so it heads in a different direction and you get some different views.

You’ll begin on trail #14 out of Compaccio.

Then you’ll pick up the trail that is simply labeled PU.

Basically, you are circling this plateau called Bullaccia or Puflatsch in German.

It’s another trail that is not particularly difficult, but it does have spots of uphill.

What this trail offers are some incredible views over some of the towns.

You’ll get views to Kastelruth as well as Ortisei/St Ulrich and Santa Cristina/Saint Christina in the Val Gardena.

These are other towns with access to Alpe di Siusi although Castelrotto and Siusi allo Sciliar are better, in my opinion.

Anyway, this is delightful trail for sure and different from the others which is why it’s on this list.

You’ll also get some magnificent views of Sasso Piatto and Sasso Lungo and the peaks beyond.

Hiking in Alpe di Siusi never disappoints!

Compaccio to Passo Duron 2204m

This may win the prize as my favorite hike in Alpe di Siusi.

And maybe it’s because I wasn’t planning on trekking to this pass.

My thought was, as I looked at the map, “I’ll go in the direction of Almrosenhütte as I haven’t hiked over there yet.”

You begin as you would for the hike to Sattler hut, so you are following trail #7.

Hike toward Baita Stella Alpina and then onto Almrosenhütte.

The #7 trail joins with the #12 along this route.

As I came to Almrosenhütte I saw signs for Mahlknechhütte and thought I’d keep hiking to this hut.

It was a gorgeous day and I was feeling good.

I came to Mahlknechhütte and could see a trail wending its way up to what I could tell was a pass.

I saw people hiking on the trail and knew I needed to go see what was there.

So at Mahlknechhütte, you’ll go through a gated farm area where there are cows and horses.

Follow that trail up to the pass.

You won’t be disappointed.

The views from here are stunning!

It’s at this pass that you actually cross over into the park — Parco Naturale Sciliar-Catinaccio.

In fact, you can see a wee bit of Marmolada, one of the taller peaks of the Dolomites, off in the distance.

This is a longer hike and has more elevation gain.

But the views from every part of this trail are breathtaking!

And there are lots of places to stop for a bite to eat or even just to take a break, sit and take in the fabulous views.

I took A LOT of pics on this hike — on the way up to the pass and on the way back to Compatsch.

When is the best time for hiking in Alpe di Siusi?

The best time is mid-June to early October.

Late June to mid July will be best for wildflowers, although you may still have flowers into late July/early August depending on the weather.

But it is a busy place at this time of year as Seiser Alm is not undiscovered.

Autumn is a bit quieter as you won’t run into all the families with school-aged children.

Yes, you miss the flowers.

But you’ll begin to see the leaves on the trees turning colors.

Prices go down a bit at this time of year as well.

Do be aware that some hotels, restaurants and shops may close at the end of September.

But there is enough open into early October to keep most travelers happy.

You can certainly visit in early June, but make sure the hotel you want to stay at is open.

It may be too early for flowers then, but it will be quieter, and prices will be less compared to July and August.

My final thoughts and a story

I have to end with this story which I think will convey my feelings on this magnificent destination.

On one of my days hiking in Alpe di Siusi I was walking up the #10/#7 trail from Compaccio.

This is a section where you are walking on a paved road.

There are wildflowers all around you in late June/early July.

I noticed a man, probably in his mid-30’s, walking with his dog.

Note: dogs must be on leashes.

Anyway, the dog kept trying to get over in the flowers, but the man kept pulling him back.

Until finally he stopped and let the dog into the meadow.

That dog rolled around in the grass and flowers, absorbing all that Alpe di Siusi goodness.

I started laughing.

Because I wanted to do the exact same thing.

Every time I hiked into certain sections of Seiser Alm all I wanted to do was run through it, with a big ol’ shit-eating grin on my face.

I wanted to lay down in those flowers and roll around in this beautiful alpe, soaking it all into my body.

Just like that dog did.

This is a place that moves me.

The beauty of Seiser Alm is breathtaking.

It’s roll-on-the-ground-in-it-all worthy!

That dog knows just how special Alpe di Siusi is.

And so do I.

I hope you find out too.