Doolough Ireland: A Beautiful Valley with a Tragic History

The Doolough Valley is one of my favorite places in Ireland.

It is beautiful but hauntingly so.

It has a tragic history from the Great Famine.

And it’s firmly on my list of the best drives in Ireland.

Why?

Let’s start with the where first.

 

Where is the Doolough Valley?

The Doolough Valley is in Southern County Mayo.

It sits just north of Killary Fjord and south of Louisburgh.

There are 2 lakes on the west side of the road with the main Doo Lough — Doo Lake — being the larger one.

Small mountains, technically hills, surround this narrow valley.

In many ways this part of Southern County Mayo is an extension of Connemara in County Galway to the south as the landscape is very similar.

 

What is the Doolough Tragedy?

Doo Lough actually means Black Lake in Irish.

And it’s fitting given the tragic history.

So here’s the story:

It was March 30, 1849 — the height of the Great Famine when many Irish were literally starving to death thanks to the English.

Those living in Louisburgh were told they would be given food if they walked to Delphi — through the Doolough Valley and 19km to the south — where the landlord and the council guardians were.

But they had to be there before a certain time the next day in order to get this much needed food.

So many folks walked on this freezing night wearing what little clothing they had which was inappropriate for the conditions.

Not to mention that most of these people were already malnourished.

When they arrived for inspection —they had to to “inspected” before they would be given any food — they were turned away, being told the guardians could not be disturbed while having their lunch.

I’m not 100% sure this part of the story is true, but regardless, these people were turned away.

No soup for you! as the Seinfeld episode says.

So they walked back home empty handed back through the valley.

And many of them died.

No one knows for certain how many people actually perished during this particular event.

But many Irish died during the Great Famine — actually around 1 million between 1845 and 1850.

And many others were forced to emigrate to the USA, Canada and elsewhere as a result of the Great Hunger as well.

So the Doolough Valley is a destination that has a terrible history.

 

But it’s still a beautiful place

I always say that the Doolough Valley is hauntingly beautiful.

If you didn’t know the tragic history, you’d just say it’s gorgeous.

Because it is a stunning valley with its mountains, hills and lakes.

However due to the horrible events of 1849, it seems to have a cloud hanging over it.

I personally think it’s that much more beautiful as a result.

And I think it’s exceptionally appealing in typical Irish weather.

 

What to see and do in the Doolough Valley

I’ve never stopped for any length of time here, but hope to on my next Ireland adventure.

I do stop at the Doolough memorial to pay my respects every time I drive through here.

And I recommend this to all travelers going through the valley.

You’ll find this pull out on the east side of the road along the Doo Lough.

There is also a good parking area on the north end with a Doolough Valley sign.

This is an excellent place to stop and take in the scene as this car park sits up on a slight hill.

You’ll get fabulous views and some superb pics from here.

And I think it gives you a sense of what it must have been like to walk through this landscape in bleak, cold weather.

You can actually do some fishing here if this is your thing.

On my last visit, there was an organized bike ride of sorts so there were loads of cyclists making their way through the valley.

Every year there is a memorial walk from Delphi to Louisburgh through the Doolough Valley.

This commemoration typically takes place in mid-May.

So if you want to spend time in the outdoors, this is a good place for it.

 

Why I love this valley

I remember driving through this valley on my first visit to Ireland in 2007.

My friend was driving.

I had no idea of the significance of this place until I looked it up after I returned.

In 2010 I drove my parents through here.

Somehow it felt wrong though, as the sun was shining and there were no clouds in the sky.

Then in 2017 I drove through the Doolough Valley on a chilly, overcast day — April 4.

It was the 2 year anniversary of my mom’s passing and somehow it all just fit together.

I spent time at the stone memorial, thinking about life, death — and taking in the beauty of the Irish landscape.

Because this is a stunning destination.

When I drove through on my last visit in 2018, I stopped to watch the cyclists make their way through the valley.

And I paid my respects once again at the stone memorial.

I thought again about all the Irish who died, suffered or were separated from loved ones during the Great Famine.

I am always reminded of the strong Irish spirit when I drive through the Doolough Valley.

This gorgeous valley and the horrible tragedy represent the Irish people to me — they are lovely, warm people with a tough resolve and strong, enduring spirit.

I think that’s why I love the Doolough Valley so much.

Because I love Ireland and its people.

 

Have you been to the Doolough Valley?

If you’ve visited the Doolough Valley, I’d love to hear your thoughts.

Feel free to leave a comment below.

And if you haven’t, I highly recommend driving through this splendid and fascinating valley.