Is Ireland’s Ring of Kerry Really That Special?

The most popular Irish peninsula is the Iveragh Peninsula which you know as the Ring of Kerry.

And believe it or not, I had not visited this popular destination until my trip to Ireland this year.

Finally on this 6th trip I traveled to this “must see” part of Ireland.

So does the Ring of Kerry live up to the hype?

 

First some facts about the Ring of Kerry

So the Iveragh Peninsula is the actual name of the piece of land but we all refer to the circular drive around the peninsula as the Ring of Kerry — because it’s located in County Kerry.

The drive is 179km (about 111 miles) and many people do this all in one day.

Don’t.

I’ll come back to this.

You can start in Killarney town or Kenmare and make the drive either clockwise or anti-clockwise.

The peninsula has everything from historical sites, picturesque towns, sandy beaches and rocky coastline to soaring mountains and green fields dotted with sheep.

It really is stunning.

 

Which direction should I drive it in?

Because this drive is so popular with tour companies — and thus tour buses — I recommend driving clockwise. This is due to the fact the buses drive anti-clockwise and the buses typically take off from Killarney town.

Get an early start so you won’t have to worry about coming face to face with buses all day.

If you begin driving by 8am you’ll have some time before you start running into those buses.

 

Should I drive it all in one day?

No.

Stay out on the Ring of Kerry for a night. Maybe 2 or 3 or 4.

I stayed 3 nights in the town of Waterville and it was amazing.

More on this further down this post.

If you are pressed for time you can drive it all in one long day.

But you’ll rush through it so you won’t have the opportunity to enjoy it and really experience it — because there are some amazing sites to take in.

So my advice is to NOT drive it all in one day.

 

Skellig Ring

This is the “extra” little ring out at the far end of the peninsula.

It’s the one that the tour buses don’t fit on.

And it’s the best part of the Ring of Kerry, in my opinion.

Which is why you don’t want to drive it all in one day because the Skellig Ring will add more distance and more time to the trip.

You’ll drive on wee roads that ramble through sheep fields.

You’ll make a stop at Skelligs Chocolate to taste (and buy) some of the tastiest chocolate on the planet.

You’ll stroll on the beach at St Finian’s Bay.

You’ll be treated to views of Skellig Michael and Little Skellig off in the distance.

You’ll walk along the paths that take in the Kerry Cliffs (well worth the €4).

And you’ll get to take in the colorful town of Portmagee.

So don’t miss Skellig Ring.

And don’t race around the Ring of Kerry.

 

The towns of the Ring of Kerry

There are some lovely towns on the Ring of Kerry.

Skip Killarney town as this is over-touristed, filled with tour buses and generally has mediocre shops and restaurants. My opinion.

Kenmare is another story. I love this town and find it worthy of a few days.

But out on the Ring you’ll find the towns of Sneem and Cahersiveen and the villages of Caherdaniel, Waterville and Portmagee.

I loved Waterville which, in my opinion, makes a fabulous half way point to your drive.

Waterville has a lovely waterfront area, some good restaurants, fabulous accommodation choices and is close to Skellig Ring for exploring that special part of the Iveragh Peninsula.

Portmagee is actually on Skellig Ring and though I simply drove through, it looked like a lively, colorful town with some good places to stay and eat.

Sneem and Cahersiveen are bigger towns that offer just a bit more than Waterville or Portmagee and might be better options for those who want a little more to their town.

 

Beaches

There are a few gorgeous beaches on the Ring of Kerry.

Derrynane, near Caherdaniel, is just stunning. In the same area you’ll also find Castlecove Beach which is a bit smaller but no less beautiful.

St Finian’s Bay is a lovely sheltered beach on the Skellig Ring that has some wonderful views toward Skellig Michael and Little Skellig.

On the north side of the peninsula near Cahersiveen is White Strand.

And also on the north side are Kells and Rossbeigh beaches.

So there are choices no matter where on the Ring you are!

 

Valentia Island

One of my regrets is that I didn’t make it to Valentia Island which you can reach by driving across a bridge from Portmagee.

There are a few towns on this island but I would have loved to have seen the lighthouse and the view from Bray Head.

You’ll also find a couple of churches with some interesting history and St Bendan’s Well.

Valentia Island is home to the Skellig Experience Visitor Center which has exhibitions on what life was like for the monks who lived on Skellig Michael, the wildlife of the islands and the history of the lighthouse on the island.

And yes, you can book and take boat tours for Skellig Michael from Valentia Island.

 

Skellig Islands

If you want to make the boat tour to the Skellig Islands then you want to stay out on the Ring of Kerry.

There are choices in boat tours: a boat tour just around the 2 islands or a boat tour that lands on Skellig Michael so you can get off the boat and explore this historical location.

But the tours only happen from about mid-May to late September.

And even though they are scheduled during this time to go every day, they don’t actually end up happening each day due to rough seas.

The seas are very tumultuous here. Even on good days the seas are difficult.

So if you can’t handle this then please don’t take one of these tours.

If you plan to actually step foot on Skellig Michael, you must be in good shape as there are loads of steps to climb.

This is not meant for everyone.

I had so hoped to take this tour, but my timing was off since I was on the Iveragh Peninsula in early May.

Next time!

 

Killarney National Park

Technically driving through the park is part of the Ring of Kerry drive.

But this park deserves time — at least a few days especially if you are a hiker and want to get out for some walks.

Another reason not to race around this peninsula.

There are old abbeys and manor homes to explore as well as miles of trails to walk, lakes to kayak and smaller roads to explore by car, bike or foot.

I love this park and look forward to spending a good week or 2 exploring it and the Ring of Kerry interior.

Yes. I have a plan!

 

The overlooked interior

My biggest regret is that I didn’t explore the interior of the Iveragh Peninsula.

Everyone races around the coastal road which, yes, is technically the Ring of Kerry.

But the Iveragh Peninsula has a gorgeous mountainous interior dotted with bogs and lakes.

I would have loved to have taken some drives and walked along some of the Kerry Way which is the long distance trail that wends its way across the peninsula.

I always say, “Don’t neglect the interior.” And this is so true with the Iveragh Peninsula.

 

Other spots on the Ring

One of the most scenic locations is the area between Caherdaniel and Waterville. This is also where you’ll find Derrynane Beach.

It’s definitely an area where you say, “Wow!” It’s gorgeous.

And on the north side there’s a section of the road that has the mountains to the right (when driving clockwise) and the sea to the left. It has the wow factor as well.

My weather that day was not great so I didn’t have the views that I imagine would be stunning on a nicer day.

 

So is the Ring of Kerry that special?

I do think it’s amazing.

But I wouldn’t say it’s my favorite of Ireland’s southwest peninsulas.

However I would go back again to explore more deeply.

I’d love to stay in Waterville again, explore the interior, see the north side of the peninsula in good weather, walk on the Kerry Way, check out Valentia Island AND make the boat trip to Skellig Michael.

So yes, the Ring of Kerry is special — so much so that you need to spend time here.

It’s special enough to not race around it.

So please don’t.

 

My favorite Ring of Kerry story

Not long after I went through the town of Sneem the road went inland a bit.

I was in awe of the mountains and the farms. Something reminded me of my old home of Colorado.

I found a spot to stop and take some photos.

As I was photographing a small truck/van pulled up by me and an older man named Bill struck up a conversation with me.

We chatted a bit and then he told me I was welcome to drive up to his house for some nice views. It was just the dirt road up to the left not more than 50 yards away.

When I got back in the car I wasn’t sure I was going to drive up that road. 

I debated with myself.

But I decided to accept his invitation because I knew I had time.

He told me his wife would probably be there and just to tell her that he sent me up.

Sure enough I arrived at the top of this road — not too far up — and Zita, Bill’s wife, came over to me.

I told her Bill had sent me. I talked with her a bit and took some photos.

 

And it was an amazing view from there.

I asked her how long they had lived there and she asked about my job.

Bill showed up and the 3 of us chatted a bit.

Then I said my goodbyes kicking myself for not taking a picture of them.

But this is what I say about travel — not just to Ireland but to anywhere in the world — people are good and kind.

And slowing down and connecting with the people is what makes travel to other countries so special.

My heart has been filled with so much joy over the years I’ve been traveling to other countries. Even when there’s a language barrier you still can connect and have moments.

So travel slowly. Take your time.

I was in no rush on this day so I took advantage of a “travel moment” that presented itself to me.

And what a special moment it was…