I can’t say that Paris was a destination that was high on my list when I was in my 30’s. But, after watching Pixar’s Ratatouille countless times, I decided I had to go. I mean, thinking about Remy’s expression as he comes out of the sewer and realizes he’s in Paris…well, Remy’s excitement and child-like awe sold me on the City of Light.
So, I decided to add a 4 night trip to Paris at the end of my time in Italy. And yes, I was traveling solo – my favorite way to travel!
Arriving in Paris
I booked a train ticket from Milan to Paris – a seven hour train ride. I had two issues. One – I was coming to the end of a three week trip and didn’t have a lot of money. And, most people know, Paris isn’t cheap. Two – the hotel I was hoping to stay at in the Latin Quarter didn’t have a room available the first night. I was booked there for nights two through four. So, I was going to risk it and go there first, hoping that there might be a last minute cancellation. What did I have to lose?
When I departed the train at Gare de Lyon, I decided to walk. Yeah, I know. From Gare de Lyon across the River Seine and into the Latin Quarter. I didn’t want to spend the money on a taxi or navigate the Metro. It really wasn’t that far and I enjoyed the walk after the long train ride. I used the map in my Paris guidebook and found the Hôtel de l’Esperance. Although they didn’t have any last minute cancellations, there was a hotel right across the street that had a room for the night.
So what does a solo gal traveler on a tight budget do in Paris?
Well, I was fascinated by Notre Dame cathedral, so it was definitely first on my list. After dropping my bags in my room and freshening up a bit, I grabbed my camera and my map and out the door I went. It was a Friday and getting on toward evening. It was early June, so the days were long. I made my way to the Île de la Cité and there it was – flying buttresses, scary gargoyles, Gothic in every way. It’s free to go into the cathedral so after taking some snaps of the façade, I entered. And my jaw dropped to the floor. Stained glass windows, pointed Gothic arches, and a mass in progress. The other visitors and I gawked in silent respect.
I ate out at that night at some restaurant near my hotel. I have to admit that I didn’t get into the Parisian restaurant scene. Number 1, I didn’t have the money for it (although I could have eaten at some of the inexpensive and numerous cafes). Number 2, after being in Italy and eating my way through pasta and gelato (and loads of tasty wine), I wasn’t so crazy about the food in Paris. It was heavier, meat based (I’m a vegetarian here in the States, but I do let go of that often when I travel) and just not to my liking. At least not at the time. But I do love all the French cheeses and wines. So, after eating out that first night, the next morning I shopped at the Market on Rue Mouffetard and loaded up on fresh fruit and veggies, cheese, bread and wine. I was set for the next couple of days. And, I saved a lot of money and got to eat some incredible cheese!!
Being solo and on a budget in Paris is not difficult. There are plenty of free or inexpensive things to see and do. By walking and taking in one site per day, I didn’t spend a lot. And, I saw a lot of the Paris neighborhoods, or arrondissements.
Day 2 took me to the Musée d’Orsay
Home of the Monet’s. I love this museum. I love the building (an old train station) and the works of art here – Monet, Renoir, Van Gogh, Matisse. I fell in love with Henri Matisse’s work here. There were kids from a school sitting on the floor in a couple of the rooms when I was there. They had sketch pads and were trying to copy a work of art up on the wall. It was inspiring to see kids learning about art. I wandered about the streets between the Orsay and my hotel on my way back – popping into shops, watching the people go by and taking photos of the streets and buildings. It’s a great way to see the city and it’s free!
The Louvre was on tap for Day 3
Again, I walked. I loved walking in Paris! There was no line at the Louvre. I think I got lucky. You could spend weeks here and still not see all the works of art. Of course, the Mona Lisa is the big draw. And while I definitely wanted to see her, I took my time and wandered about, seeing some other great works of art. Venus di Milo is housed here and I spent some time with her. I found a statue of the Greek god, Pan. All I could think of was the Cake song that went like this – “I just want to play on my Pan pipes, I just want to drink me some wine.” I know! Crazy, right? After the Louvre, I took in some of the area around it, in the 1st arrondissement. Wandering as I do and photographing. I ended up in front of Notre Dame again. It kept drawing me back. I couldn’t help it! I thought about Remy again, my little rat muse. I was in awe of Paris as much as he was.

Looking out the glass pyramid of the Louvre lobby to the buildings of the Palais du Louvre, Paris, France
On Day 4 I walked to the Eiffel Tower
I had mixed feelings about this structure, but knew I had to at least see it. Once there (it was a long walk), I found myself in line for the ride to the top. It’s one of the more expensive things to do, but still not terribly pricey at €17. Being early June, it was crowded. Once at the top it was very crowded and I was getting annoyed. I was tired of being with all these damn people! I took some photos and found the next elevator going down. I stopped at one of the lower platforms and got off the elevator, walking the rest of the way down. I just needed some space. In fact, I walked along the River Seine on my way back to my hotel as I wanted some quiet. I wouldn’t do the Eiffel Tower again (okay, maybe at night), but I would go back to the Louvre, the Orsay and of course, Notre Dame.
During my days in Paris…
I wandered around the streets and gardens. I popped into shops and talked to the shopkeepers. I found the Parisians to be nice if not overly warm. Saying a simple “bonjour” when entering a store, is expected and the polite thing to do. And it will ensure that you are not seen as the “rude American tourist”. I even got a hug from a Moroccan man who is now a Parisian. I told him I was from America and he told me he loved America and gave me a hug. He was a cute, little, old guy!
My last evening found me wandering back to Notre Dame. I thought about Remy again, that little rat who became a chef, whose passion for Paris inspired me to make this trip. As I looked up at the grand old dame of Notre Dame, I knew I had chosen wisely in coming here. I also knew I needed to return.
And, I know I will. Now, more than ever, Paris needs us to visit. To not be afraid. To follow those Parisian dreams. To look at her with the wide-eyed wonder of Remy who fell so in love with her…