The Charming Italian Town of Casole d’Elsa

Casole d’Elsa was that hill town “over there” that I looked at daily from the terrace at Antico Borgo di Tignano, the agriturismo where I was staying.

I could see the cluster of buildings, picking out the bell tower and a smaller crenelated tower that looked like a castle keep.

But, since I hadn’t heard of this hill town, I didn’t really bother to make the short drive over to explore it.

Until I did.

And I’m glad I decided to go check it out.

Why?

Let’s start with some logistics.

 

Where is Casole d’Elsa?

This hill town is in Tuscany west of the popular city of Siena.

It sits in the Val d’Elsa and is not far from the famous San Gimignano and the slightly famous, but so worthy of time, Volterra.

The setting is bucolic, with the those typical Tuscan hills and valleys.

It’s kind of on the way from Siena to San Gimignano or from Siena to Volterra, so Casole d’Elsa can make a nice stop as you check out the more touristed towns.

 

What is there to experience?

Casole d’Elsa is small with a population of 3800.

But don’t let this fool you.

It’s an Italian town — a Tuscan one at that — so there are always things to see and do…

Such as 2 churches.

Because it’s Italy and even small towns need more than one church!

I still don’t get this, but hey, who am I to argue with the Italians?

San Niccolò and Collegiata di Santa Maria Assunta are the religious buildings worthy of time with Santa Maria being the bigger one with the bell tower.

Do check both of them out as there is artwork and Santa Maria has a couple of tombs in it.

The big draw is the Verrocchio Art Center where you can actually take art courses ranging from painting to sculpting.

In fact, Casole d’Elsa is very much known as an artisan town.

So if you are an artist, you can actually take a painting or sculpting holiday here.

As you wander about this hill town you’ll find sculptures popping up here and there.

It’s fun to spot these as you meander around.

There are 2 towers and a castle from the 1400’s that houses the municipal government.

You’ll also find the Arte Viva Gallery here.

This art gallery shows art work from children from all over the province.

I told you this was an artisan town.

And the views from this town?

Amazeballs!

You truly feel like you’re in Tuscany as you gaze across the hills from the town walls that are still mostly intact.

There are a few family run restaurants, a gelato shop, some pizza places, a wine bar and a bakery so if you get hungry from all that wandering, you’re covered.

 

Why should you spend time in this hill town?

This town “over there” was a revelation for me.

Not because there was some great tourist site to see.

And not even because of the views or the surprise sculptures — although I love the sculptures.

Casole d’Elsa is just so authentically Italian.

I wasn’t with a bunch of other Americans or Germans or Brits or Japanese hell-bent on seeing this site and that site.

In fact, I’m pretty sure I was the only tourist walking the streets of this Tuscan town the day I visited.

I watched as parents collected their children from school and stopped by the gelaterìa on the way home.

Old men sat out at the sports bar with their drinks, talking and laughing.

I was witnessing what Italian life is like is a small Tuscan town.

And, for me, this is the joy of travel — the joy of traveling to a small town that’s not in the tourist guide and really experiencing real life for the people who live there.

So “that town over there” charmed my socks off.

I didn’t spend too much time here.

And you don’t need to either — unless you want to stay which I think might be fun. There are some places to stay right in town.

But stop by — and slow down.

Wander about trying to find the sculptures.

Take loads of photos of old wooden doors and narrow cobblestone streets.

Eat a gelato.

Sit down for a glass of vino.

Immerse yourself in Italy.

Casole d’Elsa is perfect for all of these.