Valpolicella: The Best Italian Wine Region You’ve Never Heard Of

Do you know the Valpolicella wine region? Maybe you have heard of it. But maybe you’re asking, “Where is this Italian wine region? And why do I not know about it?” Well keep reading because I’m going to fill you in on this spectacular destination in Italy. Let’s start with some basics.

 

Where is the Valpolicella wine region?

This viticulture region is in the province of Verona which is a province within the Veneto region. So it’s in the north of Italy. It also happens to be just east of Lago di Garda, northwest of the Adriatic Sea and south of the Monti Lessini foothills of the Alps. So it has the mix of warm days and cool nights that can make for fabulous grape growing. The beautiful city of Verona is only about 15 miles away so if you want to add a trip to this gorgeous wine region onto your visit to Verona it’s totally doable. And if you’re visiting Lago di Garda why not make a detour just a few miles east to play in the vineyards for a day?

 

 

The wines

The wines of the Vapolicella are amazeballs and — I think — there’s something for every taste. First of all most of the wines of this region are from the Corvina Veronese, Rondinella and Molinara grapes. I have a friend who would call these, “weird Italian grapes.” Which translates into “not one of the more famous grapes like Cabernet Sauvignon or Pinot Noir.”

  There are levels of wines which is why I believe everyone —who is a wine lover — will find something they like. One of the processes that some of these wines go through is that the grapes are dried on racks in special rooms so that they become almost raisin-like. This definitely adds to the uniqueness of these wines. Here’s a breakdown of the wines:

• Valpolicella — The basic wine that is released within weeks after the harvest. It’s light, fruity and much like the French Beaujolais nouveau wines.
• Valpolicella Classico — This wine comes from grapes that are grown in the original Valpolicella production zone within the viticulture region. It’s tasty!
• Valpolicella Superiore —Superiore must be aged for one year and have an alcohol content of 12%. So this wine will be bolder than the basic wine but it still falls into a medium-bodied wine category.
• Amarone — I call this a “meal in a glass” as it’s a rich, full-bodied wine. It can take on notes on chocolate, dried-fig, cherry or dark berries. And it’s very high in alcohol with some coming in at 15% or a bit higher. Amarone can be aged a long time much like Barolo. This is the wine made from the dried grapes.
• Valpolicella Ripasso — Often referred to as a “baby Amarone” this wine goes through a double fermentation as the skins from the making of the Recioto wine (see below) and the Amarone are added in. The Ripasso just received its own DOC in 2009. It’s one of my favorites. And it’s a little less bold and pricey than the Amarone.
• Recioto — The dessert wine is made in the same process as Amarone except the grapes aren’t allowed to ferment. So you get a lovely, sweet dessert wine.

 

Why is it not as well-known?

My experience in traveling to this wine region is that it’s not as well-known with Americans. I met a few Americans — but very few. However the Germans seem to like it. But on my 2 trips to the Valpolicella it’s never seemed overly busy or teeming with tourists. I think this is probably because Tuscany — with its Chianti and Brunello wine regions — and Piedmont  —with its Barolo, “King of Wines” — are more famous than Valpolicella. So more people travel to these regions. But I think this is changing as many Americans are becoming increasingly interested in different wines from around the world.

 

What makes Valpolicella so wonderful?

Where do I begin? When I made my first trip to this area back in 2011 I went because I had drunk Amarone with my Irish friend and her husband in 2008 — in Tuscany! But I remembered it. So I decided that after visiting Venice and Vicenza in the Veneto region that I should make a trip to the vines and try the wine again — this time at the source. And then I promptly fell in love with the land and its people. Not only are the wines incredible but the landscape in which these vineyards sit is gorgeous. The foothills surround the valleys. And small towns dot the landscape — some of which sit in the valleys and some are up on hills like San Pietro in Cariano and San Giorgio di Valpolicella. It’s really stunning. The food is fabulous — locally grown, simple and fresh. And the people are warm and kind-hearted. The best thing is that it’s less-visited so there aren’t loads of people clogging up the roads or in the tasting rooms at the vineyards. Now my 2 visits were in late June and in early September so I didn’t hit the high tourist season so it could be busier in July and August. But my guess is the Valpolicella wine region is still less crowded than the Chianti region in Tuscany.

 

Tips for visiting Valpolicella

If you’re sold on visiting this wine region then I’ve got a few tips for you.

• Driving is the best way to get here and to get around to the various vineyards.
• Stay for a night or 2 as it’s wonderful to be at a restaurant in one of the towns at night with the locals. Take a walk in the vines as the sun sets over the vineyards. Or wake up early to watch the sun rise over the vines from your room. Plus there are some fabulous places to stay such as Dimora del Bugiardo, La Meridiana, and Serego Alighieri.
• You can take a day tour from Verona as there are tour companies that will take you and your group — or put you with some others — out to the vineyards. If your time is limited, you just want a day in the vineyards, or you don’t want to drive then this is a good alternative.
• If you want to go on your own but don’t want to drive, there are busses. But busses won’t take you to the vineyards. So you may be doing a lot of walking from one of the towns out to the vineyards.
• You can also take a bike tour of the vineyards if this is your jam. It’s a marvelous way to get some exercise as you taste wine — and burn off all the calories!
• Try not to visit during vendemmia, grape harvest. My second visit occurred just as they were beginning to harvest the grapes. It gets busy at the vineyards so it’s not always an ideal time. That being said, you can still take tours and taste the wine. May and June might be the best times to plan a visit.
• Most vineyards/wine tasting rooms will require an appointment although there may be some that have signs out saying, “Tasting Room Open.” If you see that sign, then you can drop in. If not, then you must book ahead.

 

Vineyards to visit

Here are some of my favorite vineyards to visit:

• Corte Aleardi — My favorite vineyard to visit is a small, family-run vineyard near the village of Gargagnano. The wines are spectacular!
• Serego Alighieri — Although now partnered with Masi, Serego Alighieri is special. The Alighieri family, who owns the vineyard, are direct descendants of Dante Alighieri. You know, the Renaissance dude who wrote the Divine Comedy. I met the daughter of the current Count. And didn’t even realize who she was. The wines are quite tasty.
• Allegrini — One of the bigger producers, but with a fabulous portfolio of wines. Very close to the town of Fumane.
• Buglioni — In 2014 I stayed in Dimora del Buglioni which is the farm house in the vineyards of this winery. So naturally I tasted their wines. And they are excellent. They also have a restaurant — Locanda del Buglioni — that offers up some delicious, local food.
• Brunelli — This lovely vineyard is just down the hill from San Pietro in Cariano and has some stellar wines.
• Rubinelli Vajol — Or the most difficult vineyard to find! But well worth the getting a bit lost to get there. The setting is beautiful out some dirt roads and the wines are fab!

 

Are you intrigued by Valpolicella?

It’s definitely a gorgeous part of Italy with world-class wines that you’ll be raving about to your friends back home. The region is not very big and it’s dotted with lot of family-run vineyards that are small — although there are a few larger wineries. And I think you’ll fall in love with it just as much as I have.