A Girl, A Wine and A Love Affair

I find it difficult to describe the Valpolicella region in northern Italy. It’s a place that makes me feel like a teenage girl, giddy with happiness. It started with the big, bold wine, Amarone, and has moved to something much more. I think I might be in love…

My Irish friend and her husband introduced me to Amarone in 2008. I had my first sip in, of all places, Tuscany. But, they were right. Amarone is a special wine. Big, bold, full of life (and a lot of alcohol). It’s actually much like many of the Italians! I kind of forgot about it for a few years until I was traveling, wherever the wind would take me, in spring of 2011. Venice was on the radar screen as were other parts of the Veneto region. It was then that I remembered that first sip…

So, I planned a trip to the Valpolicella region just outside the city of Verona. I had a car, so I booked a spot near the vineyards.

The first time I laid eyes on these beautiful vineyards in the valleys of Fumane, San Pietro in Cariano, Gargagnago, Sant’ Ambrogio, well, it was love at first site. Staying just on the outskirts of the tiny town of Fumane at the base of a hill in the lovely La Meridiana B&B made for the perfect introduction to this magical region. Fumane sits in a valley surrounded on three sides by hills. Walking up the road with new friends from the B&B, Melissa and Ernesto (a lovely young Aussie couple) at sunset is something that still sticks with me. The views were amazing. But, it felt like something more…

And it was. I ran up that same road in the morning just after sunrise. I passed folks working in their vineyards, tending the early summer grapes. We said our buongiorno’s and I felt more love, and, surprisingly, at home.

Tasting wine at Serego Alighieri, Corte Aleardi and Allegrini, making friends with the folks working there began to cement the relationship. From Massimilla Alighieri (a direct decedent of Dante of The Inferno fame), to Cristina at Aleardi (one of the family who owns and operates this wonderful winery), to the crazy gal at Allegrini whose favorite show was Hot in Cleveland, everyone was so nice, so genuine, so warm. Another gorgeous sunset from the hills the next night and I was hooked. I knew I would be back. Not just for the wine (all fabulous), but for the people, the land, the feeling, the love.

 

 

So here I sit on my last night of three in Agriturismo del Bugiardo near the town of San Pietro in Cariano. Welcomed by the beautiful Silvia who took such good care of me during my stay, this agriturismo sits right in the vines of the Buglioni vineyard. Out in the flat land just a few kilometers to the west of Fumane, it is still a picturesque spot, with great hospitality. I dread leaving. I have had incredible visits to five wineries including return visits to Serego Alighieri and Corte Aleardi (which is one of my favorites). And I made new friends at Rubinelli Vajol, not only outstanding wines, but some of the friendliest people in the area. Not to mention a stunning location! Delicious dinners at Locanda dal Nane (thanks to Matilde and Giacomo) and Locanda del Bugiardo (thanks for the recioto) with warm smiles makes me sad to go. The men harvesting the grapes who allowed me to photograph them, the man the next vineyard down the road who laughed at me as I washed my muddy shoes off in the puddles in the road, and the grandmother near Serego Alighieri walking her grandchild whom I had a funny conversation with (she speaking all in Italian and me only understanding every tenth word), all made me want to learn more Italian so I could communicate more fully with these amazing people. And, today as I returned to Fumane and walked up the hill from La Meridiana where this affair began, I realized that I am truly in love with this area. The land, the wine, the people – this Valpolicella region is enchanting! I’ll be back, I know I will. For you see, tomorrow as I leave, a little piece of my heart will remain here – so I’ll have to come back to see how it’s doing…